BARS & RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A cocktail and aperitivo lounge in Hollywood by chef Evan Funke, Bar Avoja lies behind tufted cowboy doors, hidden inside his Roman-style restaurant Mother Wolf.
The Vibe: The energy shifts as you walk away from the lively atmosphere of Mother Wolf into the dimly lit hallway leading to Bar Avoja’s space, where maroon is the dominant color and ornate gold mirrors line the space dotted with oversized velvet chairs and leather couches. A fashionably dressed bartender in black and white formal attire staffs the free-standing back corner bar. Chandeliers with hanging crystals add to the slightly gaudy decor. With light ’90s R&B in the background, intimate conversations are buzzing throughout the room.
The Food: Roman spuntini (i.e. shareable snacks) trend carb-heavy, with several fried offerings. Ask if there are any specials, or as they call it, “non-verbals,” and you may find a lighter option, such as prosciutto and melon. The small menu consists of four sections beginning with Prime Cose and ending with Dolce & Gelati. Try a dish from each, and you’ll have more than enough to constitute a meal.
Funke does a mean focaccia at all of his restaurants, and the one here may be the most enticing one yet, with a creamy, garlic-heavy interior, topped with parmesan. The Portafoglio is a sandwich made with an entire pizza crust as the bread, lined with garlicky spinach and wrapped around oxtail meatballs, crispy on the outside, shredded on the inside. The arancini are a fresh take on the dish, with the rice balls atop a subtle cacio e pepe sauce.
The Drink: A well-crafted menu of cocktails, non-alcoholic creations, and limited options (two of each) of champagne, white, and red wine. The Morso di Vita cocktail is a standout for its compelling savory blend of vodka, passion fruit, tomato, basil, and lemon. On the sweeter side, the Spritz Bianchi’s lightness pairs well with the rich plates. The Effetto Placebo mimics a cocktail with its square cube of ice in a lemon-forward rooibos iced tea.
The Verdict: “Avoja” is the Roman way of saying “Hell yeah” — more or less the attitude of the place. The drinks are expensive, the meal can be gluttonous, but it’s a pitch-perfect setting for a sophisticated night out in Hollywood. –Dyana Lederman
→ Bar Avoja (Hollywood) • 1545 Wilcox Ave • Thu-Sat 6-11p • Reserve.