RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Chef/owner Dave Beran’s five-year-old Santa Monica favorite Pasjoli just underwent a major menu overhaul alongside a minor interior makeover. The restaurant’s previous iteration — known for inventive, whimsical takes on French cuisine — has given way to a more approachable, traditional bistro menu with subtle, creative flair.
The Vibe: The remake only took two weeks to complete, and comes as Beran shifts focus to Seline, his new $295 per tasting menu destination just down the street. Maybe as a counterbalance, he transformed Pasjoli into a less fussy, higher-energy option for locals to hit regularly. With new seating along the windows and an unobstructed view of the kitchen, the warmly lit space connects guests to both the cooking and the neighborhood framing it.
The Food: Halibut crudo with cherries conjures memories of the original Pasjoli, in the sense that it’s surprising, unpredictable, and flawless. Another starter, the eight-hour caramelized French onion “souplette,” is deeply oniony and delightful. Served in a tiny soup dish, it comes with a superb block of buttery toasted bread on the side for dipping. Entrées include correctly executed French bistro fare like juicy steak frites, steamed mussels with fennel, and head-on prawns in a rich tomato cognac sauce. One notable holdover, however: the (reservation-only) $350 tableside pressed duck, an old-school French showpiece that’s been on the menu since Pasjoli opened in 2019.
The Drink: While the new food offerings narrow into more traditional French, the revamped bar program has been broadened. Previously, the bar only served French spirits, but now there’s a more comprehensive list. Most noteworthy, though, is the fun (if risky) “Pasjoli Cocktail Card,” which allows guests to roll the dice by selecting liquor, flavor profile, and style (shaken or stirred) — and seeing what arrives. Mind the fine print: “Commit to the sip. Sorry, no refunds.”
The Verdict: The Pasjoli reboot accomplishes exactly what it set out to do. It’s now the kind of place everyone wants in their neighborhood: great cocktails, a satisfying burger, and an upbeat vibe. With that change comes the loss of a destination restaurant, where one might go for a special occasion to experience Beran’s incredible finesse. Thankfully, now there’s Seline for that. –Heather Platt
→ Pasjoli (Santa Monica) • 732 Main St • Sun-Thu 5-930p, Fri-Sat 5-1030p • Reserve.