GETAWAYS • Carlsbad
The Skinny: 22-seat Lilo is the culmination of chef Eric Bost and restaurateur John Resnick's transformation of a sleepy Southern California surf town into a culinary mecca. The duo now operates four restaurants (Wildland, Jeune et Jolie, and Campfire) within walking distance of one another on State Street. Lilo, which opened last month, is the quartet’s fine dining entry, and allows Bost to flex like he hasn’t been able to since closing Auburn in Los Angeles during the pandemic.
The Vibe: Start with welcome drinks and bite-sized snacks in a zen outdoor garden. Inside, 14 counter seats and two four-tops surround an open kitchen. Large jars of pickles and preserves line the shelves above wine glasses. Chefs serve guests, presenting plates with tableside flourishes, offering a precisely described narrative of the dishes’ preparations. You’ll end up back outside in the heated garden for mignardise and tea, with a natural, comfortable flow to the evening.
The Food: Bost spent nearly a decade working with Guy Savoy, and his French sensibilities — including a dedication to local purveyors like Chino Farm — are readily evident. He also has a knack for using finishing oils in unexpected ways, marrying flavors and adding texture without weighing down his dishes. For example, a few drops of roasted coffee oil with Wild Brittany turbot adds depth and contrast to Pineau de Charentes sabayon, and almond oil is freshly pressed daily to balance the juxtaposition of ossetra caviar atop orgeat ice cream, with an umami accent of smoked celery root bushi shaved on top. Pastry chef Maddie Biehl is a gem, and her desserts equal Bost’s savory dishes in their complexity.
The Drink: There are three drink pairing options, and a robust selection of cocktails and wines by the glass. Choose from an alcoholic pairing, a non-alcoholic pairing, or a “Goldilocks” mix of both. Wine director Savannah Riedler is pouring Caraccioli Cellars sparkling wine from nearby Monterey County by the magnum, and it’s as good as Champagne.
Why It’s FOUND: Bost and chef de cuisine Dušan Todić are cool and collected mentors for an enthusiastic, young team of top-tier talent who are putting the Carlsbad dining scene in lights. –Amber Gibson
→ Lilo (Carlsbad) • 2571 Roosevelt St • Tue-Sat 5-10p • Reserve.