RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened early last month, modern Chinese restaurant 88 Club is chef Mei Lin’s long-awaited return to LA’s fine dining scene five years after the closing of her heralded restaurant Nightshade.
The Vibe: The entry to 88 Club on Santa Monica Boulevard is easy to miss, marked by minimal signage. Inside, though, the atmosphere is anything but understated. The private-club-like space is dimly lit, with marble floors, heavy velvet curtains, and R&B pulsing through the room. On a recent Wednesday night, it was packed.
The Food: The menu favors family-style dining, balancing nostalgia with elevated technique. The night’s standout was a dish of prawn and bamboo shoot wontons. They arrive in a pristine white porcelain bowl with delicate chicken master stock, a Chinese version of tortellini in brodo. Another highlight is the tender and glazed char siu abanico, a thin piece of Pata Negra Iberian pork rich in fat streaks. The sesame prawn toast — a Nightshade signature — returns in a more layered format, sandwiched between two slices of bread and served with hot mustard and sweet and sour sauce. While it didn’t quite resonate with us, it was on almost every table — some adding caviar for good measure. The night ends with refreshing ginger ice cream and a buttery almond cookie.
The Drink: The cocktail list builds Chinese flavors into classics, as in the LIIT, a twist on the Long Island Iced Tea, layered with baijiu and osmanthus. Meanwhile, the wine list favors French bottles, with a focus on small producers and sustainable selections, as well as big swings like a $5,800 bottle of Pomerol.
The Verdict: By the time you leave, it’ll be hard to shake the memory of 88 Club, let alone imagine an LA without it. –Victoire Loup
→ 88 Club (Beverly Hills) • 9737 S Santa Monica Blvd. • Tue-Thu 530-1030p, Fri-Sat 530-11p • Reserve.
Photo: Marcus Meisler