RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Famed omakase Sushi | Bar has taken up residence in the most unlikely and delightful space, Hermosa Beach’s brunch spot Martha’s. A (raw) fish out of water in this beach town, the pop-up was welcomed with open arms, and responded by extending its planned summer stay through September.
The Vibe: Martha’s breakfast counter is transformed into an intimate 12-person omakase bar. Lights are dimmed to a mood-setting low, and a sign made to look like a green chalkboard lists the meal’s 16 courses. Ignore the linens thrown over the kitchen where short-order cooks shout in daylight, and focus on chef Francis Arguilla and team, who provide intricate details of the sushi’s preparation and sourcing of its ingredients.
The Food: The journey begins with a bluefin tuna tartar in a crunchy seaweed shell, followed by 15 pieces of nigiri. Not one disappoints. The chefs pack a variety of flavors into each bite using ingredients to enhance the fish’s taste as well as add texture. There is a focus on sustainably sourced fish, mostly from Japan, some from New Zealand. Hamachi with black garlic jam, lime, and cilantro exemplifies the chef’s ability to balance flavors, and a wagyu nigiri with walnut béarnaise shows the out-of-the-box thinking that somehow works. The meal finishes with a banana ice cream topped with a rice pudding foam.
The Drink: Sake pairings are available for an additional $95 (signature) or $165 (exclusive), featuring sakes curated from throughout Japan. The wine pairing, priced at $125 per, focuses primarily on French wines, and à la carte options are also available. There’s also bubbly, non-alcoholic sparkling tea, created by the former sommelier at Noma in Copenhagen. Comprised of jasmine tea and Darjeeling, it’s just the right amount of sweet to complement the meal without overpowering it.
FOUND Pro: Reservations open a month in advance.
The Verdict: Locals are familiar with Martha’s, but it’s worth the trek from all corners of LA. Try it now, or keep your fingers crossed that the hospitality group opens a brick-and-mortar in the area (as management is currently on the lookout for a space). –Dyana Lederman
→ Marthas X Sushi | Bar (Hermosa Beach) • 25 22nd St • Wed-Sun, seatings at 530p & 745p • $195 per • Reserve.