Difference maker

Hermon’s (Hermon)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Last Word Hospitality’s restaurants Found Oyster, Rararumah, Queen’s, and Barra Santos are each distinct, unique scenes, outside of one common thread: they’ve become well-loved, bustling northeastern LA fixtures. And it looks like a new one is set to join their ranks, with Last Word’s newly soft-opened Hermon’s, a classic chophouse in a neighborhood bistro’s clothes.

Just off the Arroyo Seco Parkway, Hermon’s is housed in a former church banquet hall tucked away on a quiet corner between Highland Park, South Pasadena, and Monterey Hills. Behind its wooden doors, the space was full and bustling (but not frantic) on Friday evening last week. Both the all-booth, dark-wood dining room and handsome U-shaped bar at the center were filled with diners lingering over dessert or another round of martinis (tiny or classic).

The soundtrack tilted indie and alternative, just different enough from the preset playlist you hear in a lot of other places. It’s a setting that feels like it’s always been there, and always made sense.

Chef DK Kolender, previously of Tartine and Dudley Market, has put together a menu showcasing classic Californian produce with bistro vibes. To start, we enjoyed a fresh scallop crudo with red onion, fennel, and a zip of citrus, as well as a steak tartare with a salsa macha binding and potato chip transport. Then, an order of garlic bread and Two Sheet Vongole, featuring clams, cream, and guanciale between two well-sized, crisp, but not crunchy pasta sheets. Another highlight, the Ode To Chez burger, is named after Chez Renee, Last Word’s planned Malibu spot that fell victim to the Palisades Fires before even opening.

The well-curated wine program is dynamic, and fun. Cocktails are far from an afterthought, either. In fact, on order next time: a celery spritz, a yuzu margarita, and maybe that whole grilled branzino and some steak frites. Which is to say that there will absolutely be a ”next time.” While Hermon’s might be new to the neighborhood, it’s already become that next new neighborhood spot. –James Royce

→ Hermon’s (Hermon) • 5800 Monterey Rd • Wed-Sun 5-10p • Reserve.