Enchanted garden
Berenjak (Arts District)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Each location of Berenjak comes with a name and enigmatic theme, usually something sonorous and cryptic, like a poem written by a sphinx. The theme at Berenjak’s ninth outpost — and first in the US open to the public — is “A Persian Garden in the Arts District.” Some might call it a gimmick, but (gimmick or not), it works. Since opening Berenjak in 2018, chef-founder Kian Samyani has expanded his London hole-in-the-wall Persian restaurant into a global mini-empire, with outposts in Dubai, Qatar, and Brooklyn (although that last one’s reserved for Soho House members). Dua Lipa calls Berenjak one of her favorite restaurants, and (do with this what you will) it’s not difficult to imagine why.
The Vibe: Located inside Soho Warehouse and designed to emulate King Cyrus the Great’s famous royal gardens at Pasagadae, the indoor-outdoor space is among Los Angeles’ most enchanting. Handsomely pruned trees sprout between tables, acting like privacy curtains. Lamps and candles provide light and warmth — even bathrooms are stylishly lit — and the servingware feels hand-picked and deliberate. It’s as close to the ancient world as one can find in the Arts District, and despite its worldwide footprint, Berenjak comes across as an intimate, special experience, rather than carbon-copied. Strategy, or compromise, is required when booking reservations.
The Food: Los Angeles is home to the largest Iranian population outside the country, and accordingly, palates here expect a high standard of Persian food. In a landscape that includes Taste of Tehran and Azizam, Berenjak carves out a niche for a sophisticated, upscale rendition of the cuisine. Any combination of dishes will feel like a feast, but all should include sangak, the sesame seed-spotted pouf of flatbread, alongside juicy kababs. Glistening boneless chicken kababs arrive marinated in saffron, lemon, and tomato. The tikkeh masti kebab made with beef fillet is a winner, too.
The Drinks: Lovely options are available for both drinkers and teetotalers alike. The black lime sharbat is a tart, funky iteration of traditional Persian soda, where dehydrated citrus meets seltzer and fresh mint. Wines hail from Greece, Armenia, Georgia, and Lebanon. The cocktail list is a grand time, an eclectic arrangement including a highball graced with jasmine, a sparkling watermelon shampine that mixes unfermented grape juice with vodka and rose petal tea, and a delightfully floral Earl Grey martini.
The Verdict: Berenjak is a well-oiled machine: scalable and adaptable to any market, while retaining a strong sense of self. It’s clear that the Berenjak team did their homework before opening in LA, and it’s easy to relax in such capable, confident hands. –Kat Hong
→ Berenjak (Arts District) • 1010 S Santa Fe Ave • Tue-Sat 530-11p • Reserve.