Fashion plate
Bar di Bello (Echo Park)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A highly produced 1970s-Milan-inspired dining room with an encompassing sense of place, Bar di Bello serves well-executed Northern Italian classics, plus a full bar. It opened in Silver Lake in April.
The Vibe: Lynchian heavy red curtains just inside a nondescript front door give way to a polished, ultra-sleek interior. Those curtains effectively cut off the outer world, tucking you into curves of wood, plush velvet banquettes, and glimmering crystal and stainless steel lighting. I recommend sitting further inside, if dining in the daylight hours, as newcomers thrusting aside the curtain will break the spell of dimly lit interiority. Cozy booths and a handsome bar at the back of the space lend themselves to intimate conversations.
The Food: Not pushing any boundaries, the menu effectively delivers comforting, down-the-line classics: veal orecchiette in a light cream sauce, cozy as a blanket; osso buco atop a luscious pile of perfectly cooked risotto, scented with saffron and offset by the zing of racy gremolata; a refreshing, dialed green salad, pleasantly crunchy. The focaccia, on the night I was there, was sadly deflated.
The Drink: A heavily Italian list of wines, brusque and big, with a smattering of natural leaning Californians and formidable champagne offerings. But the real draw is the cocktail list: a Negroni for every season (classic, sbagliato, mezcal, white), as well as a thimble-sized “mar-tiny,” and classic cocktails with an Italian bent.
The Verdict: Comforting, luxurious Italian classics, properly executed, in stunningly stylish environs. Bring a date. –Oliver Erteman
→ Bar di Bello (Echo Park) • 3300 Sunset Blvd #109-110 • Wed-Sun 5p-11p • Reserve.