FOUND’s fine dining correspondent Lee Pitofsky dines at The French Laundry as often as he checks his email. Here, now, his latest SoCal report:
I’ve been dining at Addison in The Fairmont Grand Del Mar two times a year for a half-dozen years now. It’s the definition of a getaway restaurant — worth the drive from LA for dinner alone, and for me, a flight in from New York before hitting the skies again the following morning.
The space is as grand as they come, with 20-foot-high ceilings, Carrara marble, ironed white tablecloths, and multiple live fireplaces and wraparound balconies, perhaps for a cognac (or an after-dinner cigar).
Addison describes its cuisine as “California Gastronomy,” which loosely translates to a celebration of the vast and diverse culture of Southern California with nostalgic flavors executed thoughtfully and meticulously. I consider the signature “eggs & rice” dish to be very much on par with the legendary “oysters & pearls” of The French Laundry. A hefty dollop of Regiis Ova Reserve caviar is set over warm koshihikari rice, an applewood smoked sabayon, and toasted sesame. It’s a masterclass in varying texture and temperatures.
Also memorable from this visit: the final savory course, Wolfe Ranch Quail (the best of the best) in two progressions. First, as an egg drop soup with silken tofu and shiitake mushrooms. Then, Cantonese-style quail, with yu-choy and five-spice quail jus.
The hospitality at Addison is among the best you’ll experience. Many team members have been there from day one. Expect synchronization like you’ve never witnessed, beyond simultaneous plate drops (as at a four-top with one server per guest pouring water service in unison without a single drop ahead of another). World-class at every angle, and just a stone’s throw away. –Lee Pitofsky
→ Addison (San Diego) • 5200 Grand Del Mar Way • Tue-Sat 5-830p • 10-course tasting $385 per • Reserve.