RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: One of LA’s restaurants of the summer, Firstborn is a modern Chinese-American spot with innovative takes on classic dishes from chef/owner Anthony Wang (formerly of Destroyer, Auburn, and Ink). It opened in March right in the heart of Chinatown.
The Vibe: Luxurious and lively. In the long-vacant former Pok Pok space in Mandarin Plaza, the warm dining room is decked out in jade green tilework, curved wooden arches, rattan-backed chairs, and custom banquettes. While the room can sometimes get a little loud, service is polished and cool. The cozy, glowing, marble-topped bar and nearby nook/waiting room with primo ‘70s vibes are excellent places to wait for a table, or just pop in for a drink. There’s also outdoor seating in the plaza.
The Food: Chinese-American with a French accent, of the shareable dishes stripe, like homemade duck sausage wrapped in a delicate tofu skin, served in a light but savory onion brodo. Other favorites include charred BBQ cabbage (served with a leek vinaigrette) and umami-heavy, tender tofu dumplings — with artichokes, shiitake, and haricots vert — sort of a cross between gnudi and matzoh balls with big grandma comfort energy.
The standout dish on nearly every table is the fried Chongqing chicken that riffs on the Szechuan classic. Here, glamorously crispy double fried chicken pieces are tossed in a smoky housemade chile crisp infused with Sichuan spice and morita chiles, a brilliantly LA flavor combo. Exercise caution as the fried chicken can certainly be a messy experience, but it’s worth it.
The Drink: As inventive as the food. Bar director Kenzo Han (The Varnish, Steep) put together an impressive cocktail menu, with drinks like the herbaceous and bright house martini (made with a carrot eau de vie and celery oil), a paloma with Szechuan peppercorns, an old-fashioned with sesame oil, and a pu-erh tea and baiju negroni. There are highballs with hand-cut ice and elaborate nonalcoholic options like a lacto-fermented blueberry fizz and a hojicha orange milk punch.
FOUND Pro: Firstborn makes for a great dinner spot before a stop at a nearby bar like General Lee's, Cafe Tondo, or Café Triste down the block.
The Verdict: A work in progress since opening (RIP the mapo tofu tartare and the sweet and sour sweetbreads), Firstborn is now hitting its stride, with food that’s fun, smart, and most importantly, sensationally delicious. Bring a crew and order the whole menu. –Raphael Brion
→ Firstborn (Chinatown) • 978 N Broadway • Wed-Thu 5-930p, Fri-Sat 5-10p, Sun 5-9:30p • Reserve.