Intricate elixirs
Vandell (Los Feliz)
BARS • First Round
The Skinny: A mostly walk-in cocktail bar featuring snacks, mains, and desserts in Los Feliz, Vandell first opened in December, and it’s been packed since.
The Vibe: Vandell may be the bar of the moment, but it presents as timeless. The olive green exterior catches the sunlight at golden hour in a very charming, specific-to-Los Angeles way, as does tile work and art by Pasadena Craftsman Tile. Inside, the bar shares a spacious dining room with wooden booths and walls adorned with dreamy art inspired by the beloved Griffith Park. A smaller room to the right of the entrance, “the green room,” is outfitted with intimately-sized round tables and also offers booth seating. Throughout, intricately-tiled floors dazzle. Music that crosses genres and generations matches the mood. Employees offer warm greetings at the entrance, and service takes off speedily without any sense of rush. The bathroom is thoughtfully arranged, with soft, blue-green eucalyptus on the counter, as well as a PF Candle Co. Amber & Moss reed diffuser.
The Drinks: Vandell’s cocktails range from light to spirit forward, with classic offerings and drinks that take advantage of the city’s incredible produce, too. I started with the Green Pepper — tequila, chartreuse, chili, bell pepper, citrus, and salt — slightly foamy and entirely fantastic. My companion opted for the Japanese Pickleback with N/A beer, which came with a house-pickled yuzu juice in a separate tiny glass as well as suggestions for how to best enjoy the pairing, like slowly adding small amounts of the citrus component as you make your way through your drink Also from the Market Fresh category of cocktails, the Blood Orange was a brilliant mix of mezcal, cognac, blood orange, cacao, cassia, orange wine, and lime. The NA Milk Punch was also something worth writing home about, with pandan, clarified milk, “autumn spices,” and citrus. I’ve since been told the Smoked Tomato is non-negotiable, too.
The Food: The concise menu doesn’t necessarily stick to one cuisine, with some French classics and dishes flavored with Vadouvan oil and yuzu dressing. A hamachi crudo, with carrot leche de tigre and gorgeous green nasturtium leaves, was exceptional, packing exactly the right amount of heat. Another starter of root vegetables was served on a bed of Roquefort crème fraîche, a combination so good I held onto it for the French fries still to come. The burger, which arrived on an English muffin with “special sauce” and cheddar, was also an instant favorite.
The Verdict: Great cocktails in upmarket environs with a kitchen capable of some interesting surprises (if not great bar food) isn’t exactly a unique proposition right now on the eastside, but Vandell more than meets the moment. Get there soon, and get there early. –Erika Houle
→ Vandell (Los Feliz) • 1966 Hillhurst Ave • Wed-Sun 5p-1a • Reserve.