RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: After closing Dialogue in 2020, chef Dave Beran is back with another tasting-menu-only experience, Seline, where dinner runs three hours over 15 to 18 courses. It might sound like a lot, but the prominence of seasonal vegetables from local farms on the menu makes Seline feel lighter than some of its fine dining peers.
The Vibe: Subtle sophistication. Soft lighting and metallic accents in gold and silver accompany playful, feminine artwork by David Choe. Velvet banquettes and brushed linen seat backs are luxe without feeling too formal. Tables are generously spaced for privacy within the 38-seat dining room, and guests have a standing invitation to visit the chefs in the open kitchen, where they can interrupt the quiet concentration with questions or borrow a book to read during their meal.
The Food: Completely different from Beran’s other restaurant, Pasjoli, down the street. Rather than familiar French bistro fare, Seline is all about light, bright flavors and unexpected flavor combinations, like braised leeks paired with banana purée, or caviar and coffee cream. You might be served a single frozen mustard leaf dipped in passion fruit as a palate cleanser, and herbs and edible flowers are tweezered onto nearly every course. Several courses, including buttery roasted potatoes, are disguised under generous herb garnishes, waiting to surprise and delight. Tender grilled sea bass with satisfyingly crispy skin dressed in Thai curry-inspired peanut coconut fish broth was a highlight for its balance of umami, sweet, and spice. Pescatarians and vegetarians will be pleased with their options (just give the kitchen a couple days’ heads up).
The Drink: Choose between an eclectic wine pairing featuring bottles from around the world, or a non-alcoholic pairing where every kombucha, syrup, and infusion is made in house.
The Verdict: A rarified fine dining experience that’s equally memorable and delicious. There’s more than meets the eye with each delicately plated dish. –Amber Gibson
→ Seline (Santa Monica) • 3110 Main St Ste 132 • Tue-Thu 6-9p, Fri-Sat 530-10p • Reserve.