BARS • First Round
The Skinny: Chef Brian Baik (a vet of NYC spots including Eleven Madison Park, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, Sushi Noz) recently debuted Bar 109, an understated, chic cocktail bar with a great burger in the front section of his eagerly anticipated Corridor 109 in Melrose Hill.
The Vibe: A more casual, no-reservations complement to Corridor 109 (slated to open next month with a 12-seat chef’s counter and seafood tasting menu), Bar 109 is refined and inviting, with friendly, knowledgeable staff, dark and sleek interiors, and cozy seating (especially at one of the three elliptical banquettes). The bar top is a pretty Forest Gold marble, and DFA Records dance tracks buzz in the background.
The Food: A short menu of upleveled American bar snacks: colossal shrimp cocktail with wild Mexican U-10 shrimp, sashimi-grade cured and smoked fish dip with Ritz crackers, a wagyu hot dog topped with ample amounts of Dijon and roasted-then-pickled pepper relish, and a Nanban-inspired fried vermillion rockfish sandwich with a tartar sauce so exceptionally chunky and creamy, I was convinced it was egg salad.
On trend with NYC’s increasing proliferation of limited bar burgers, Bar 109’s Tuesday 10pm burger (available only 10-1045p on Tuesdays in limited quantities) is, perhaps irritatingly, one of the best new burgers in LA. An eight-ounce Australian wagyu patty is grilled over binchotan with clarified butter, finished with American cheese, house-made Mac sauce, and caramelized onions, and served on a fluffy Bub and Grandma’s potato bun with pickles on the side. It features just the right amount of char in every juicy bite. I savored mine with a glass of Bourgogne.
The Drink: Delicately balanced classics with innovative seasonal twists like the Ichigo Punch (vodka, mezcal, sake, strawberry, basil, clarified milk), Oolong Boulevardier (bourbon, oolong, Campari, rosso vermouth), and my personal favorite, the Marine Layer (a dirty martini with gin, manzanilla, dry vermouth, saline, white kelp). Delightful non-alcoholic options are also available, such as the Chic Hey (malted barley, fermented rice, hojicha kombucha), inspired by Korean sikhye, a traditional sweet rice punch.
The cocktail program is led by Kayla Garcia, who oversaw acclaimed bar Kumiko in Chicago, and here in LA, helped open Thunderbolt’s sibling bar Night on Earth. A small selection of wines and sake is also available, curated by master sommelier Michael Engelmann.
The Verdict: More delicious than a casual neighborhood cocktail bar should be, Bar 109 masters the art of high-low with a fun menu, stellar service, killer cocktails, and spot-on vibes. –Deana Saukam
→ Bar 109 (Melrose Hill) • 641 N Western Ave • Tue-Sat 6p-12a • Walk-ins only.