RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Just a few steps from his cult-favorite pasta bar, Chef Avner Levi just unveiled Cento Raw Bar, which already feels like the place to be. Where Cento Pasta Bar is all comfort, its younger sibling is sleek and stylish, a shimmering seafood spot designed to the hilt.
The Vibe: The interiors read oceanic hideaway: wavy plaster walls, a seafoam green bar, rose napkin folds, snail-shell high chairs, and handmade Ukrainian light fixtures that cast a moody, underwater glow. Designed by Brandon Miradi, every inch of the space makes for a theatrical experience — whether you’re in heels or sneakers, perched at a standing table or curled up on the bouclé couch.
The Food: The seafood tower (offered in two or three tiers) is the main event, layered with oysters, scallops, uni, crab, and prawns, all served on a modular glass sculpture custom-made for the restaurant. But the two best bites on the menu are the hamachi crudo with halved cherries and Thai basil, and the Peruvian scallops on the shell topped with coriander flowers and grapefruit supremes. There’s also cold squid ink pasta with uni, and a decadent lobster melt pressed with yellow cheese.
The Drink: Heavily biodynamic wines, cocktails that feel straight out of the ’90s, as well as NA darling Ghia served on shaved ice.
The Verdict: It’s walk-ins only, loud in the best way, and every corner is photo-ready: from the colorful plateware to the bathrooms, which might just out-Instagram the Paul Smith pink wall. Whether you come for the food, the crowd, or the vibe, Cento Raw Bar makes raw feel radically alive. –Victoire Loup
→ Cento Raw Bar (West Adams) • 4919 W Adams Blvd • Wed-Sun 5p-late • Walk-ins only.
Photo: Kort Havens