RESTAURANTS • Intel
THE SHUTTER: Highly regarded omakase spot Sushi Ginza Onadora announced its closure this week on its website. The last service at its West Hollywood location, following an eight-year run, was 05/30.
ROLLING ON: Popular Los Feliz sushi bar Sōgo Roll Bar opened its new Highland Park outpost last week. If the original Los Feliz is telegraphing “daytime spot,” the Highland Park sequel is definitely for nights: The second Sōgo, on buzzy York Boulevard, is more grown-up than the first, with heron-print wallpaper, a moodier vibe, and a darker, green-hued color palette.
Sushi master Kiminobu Saito’s skills shine just as brightly here, however, with appetizers like baked crab crispy rice and an array of distinctive sushi rolls like a yuzu salmon roll, in which the addition of yuzu gives beautiful brightness and complexity to the salmon’s richness. Also, note the donburi rice bowls, in which miso-marinated black cod is served on seasoned sushi rice with ginger, nori, pickled cucumber, and avocado. Locals walking in for drinks can do just that with a stellar sake, wine, and beer selection. 5535 York Blvd (Highland Park). –Heather Platt
PITA PARTY: Taking over the former Sari Sari space in Grand Central Market, globally beloved middle eastern spot Miznon has finally landed in LA, opening last month with lively energy and bold, flavorful pitas. You’ll wait in line, which will never be long enough to face down the tough decision of what to order: for vegetarians, the falafel burger is a standout, a massive, green fava falafel that’s both crispy and tender, snuggled next to tomatoes and pickles in a hot, fluffy pita, with a dollop of sour cream and spicy green peppers. The juicy lamb kebab is a favorite, but then again, so is the grass-fed rib eye minute steak, rotisserie broken chicken, and the iconic steak and egg. Even branzino gets the Miznon treatment, served up fish ’n’ chips style.
Beyond the pitas, the sides hold their own, but none more so than Miznon’s signature roasted baby cauliflower. It’s Miznon chef/founder Eyal Shani’s MVP, so much so that it’s listed in all caps on the menu (which, like many of his restaurants, is chaotically, delightfully written in comic sans). But the bag of green beans stole the show for me: Rustic, plump, tossed in a lemon garlic vinaigrette, they’re the perfect palate cleanser between bites of meat and tahini. 317 S Broadway, stall E-12 (Downtown). –Victoire Loup
Miznon photo: Wonho Frank Lee