Restaurants of the Summer

9 hot tables, Lucia, Los Feliz listings, Oceanside Harbor, Cabo sans cliche, MORE

Jul 17, 2025

∙ Paid

RESTAURANTS • First Word

Shell game

The Skinny: Jamaican-born chef, cookbook author, and Top Chef Canada semifinalist Adrian Forte has worked as a private chef for the likes of Drake, Alicia Keys, and the late Virgil Abloh. Now, he’s bringing his signature Caribbean flavors to a polished, glamorous venue on Fairfax.

The Vibe: The music is big with dancehall and Afrobeat, the lights are low, and the air crackles. Fairfax hasn’t been cool since The Hundreds helped put LA streetwear on the map in the late 2010s, but now even co-founder Ben Shenassafar has decamped to West Hollywood with a restaurant of his own (The Benjamin Hollywood, solid, fwiw). Lucia is reclaiming territory here with interiors done up to the nines: Oversized shell motif booths, a central white terrazzo bar, and lavish fabrics bring gravitas, more Delilah than Cha Cha Chicken.

The Food: This city has great Caribbean spots, but even the standouts tend to be more of the strip-mall takeout variety. Lucia is the opposite of that, and the overall excellence is undeniable. A small plate of precisely arranged plantains garnished with neon orange Scotch Bonnet aioli should start every order, along with bite-size Jamaican patties made with wagyu. Jerk chicken, available in half or full, has the right amount of nutmeg to balance the heat and salt; grilled snapper comes swimming in a coconut beurre blanc poured tableside, served with creamed callaloo (a traditional Caribbean stewed green).

The Drinks: Throughout our dinner, the bar stayed packed with folks who just wanted to bask in the atmosphere and drink — and the cocktails are good enough to warrant a couple hours in this beautiful space. A martini with pickled okra, lemongrass, and thyme was so excellent my dining companion ordered two. The Oxtail Old Fashioned brings fat washing and savory flavors to a drink that usually trends sweet, and my drink of the summer: a Tamarind Collins with mezcal and chili, finished with Jamaican Red Stripe.

The Verdict: It’s that rare combination of a scene that’s legitimately great — book it before you can’t. –Caitlin White

→ Lucia (Fairfax) • 351 N Fairfax Ave • Wed-Sun 6p-12a • Reserve.

GOODS & SERVICES • Quicklisting

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RESTAURANTS • The Nines