BARS • First Round
The Skinny: Two weeks ago, the team behind The Benjamin opened Bar Benjamin at the same Melrose Ave. address. Neatly tucked away upstairs, the chic bar is in direct conversation with its downstairs sibling.
The Vibe: Pass this nondescript section of Melrose during the day, and you might not notice anything. But as the sun sets, the giant neon BAR sign of Bar Benjamin flickers to life. Those familiar with the tasteful, wood-panel aesthetic, curated art pieces, and immaculate sound system of The Benjamin will feel at home walking through the creamy, soft parted curtains framing the bar’s entrance.
A half-dozen horseshoe Mohair banquettes frame a long, well-polished, oak bar. Regardless of where you sit, discretion rules the room, as well-tailored, black-clad hosts handle requests with quietly refined hospitality.
The Drink: Savory, ingredient-heavy drinks from Jason Lee (n/soto, Baroo) and Chad Austin (the Mulholland, Bootlegger Tiki) contrast with the classic cocktails served at the restaurant below. Tom kha soup is recast as the refreshingly piquant Tommy Boy, topped with a foam of coconut and lemongrass for a sweet finish. The Fesenjoon is a brandy and tequila drink with hints of walnut that celebrates the Persian stew of the same name. And The Everything Gibson transforms the bagel into a salty, garlicky gin. Each cocktail is served in a tailor-made glass, and those that call for ice are poured around a perfect cube stamped with a decorative letter “B”.
The Food: A tight snacks menu offers a taste of The Benjamin’s offerings, while also serving up some exclusive Bar Benjamin-only bites. Herbaceous, creamy deviled eggs come as a trio. The menu’s only sandwich is shrimp salad topped with brackish baubles of trout roe on a buttery, grilled brioche bun. Farmers market crudite is served in a shallow bath of creamy, fried-pickle sauce, a bright, tangy counterpoint to all the other rich flavors. Run the whole menu to make a meal of it.
The Verdict: An immediate player in LA’s revelry rotation. –Darin Bresnitz
→ Bar Benjamin (Hollywood) • 7174 Melrose Ave • Tue-Wed 6p-1a, Thu-Sat 6p-2a • Reserve.