RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Domaine LA founder Jill Bernheimer and former Rose general manager Julian Kurland dreamt up a wine bar for Larchmont pre-pandemic, but it wasn't until Voodoo Vin chef Travis Hayden joined them that the idea evolved into Bar Etoile, a simple yet sophisticated French bistro in Melrose Hill that debuted last November, and has since very much hit its stride.
The Vibe: The restaurant is tucked between two furniture stores along a stretch of Western Avenue that's redefining itself. Inside, the mood created by design studio Lovers Unite is engrossing and elegant, but never stuffy. A zinc bar splits the dining room, while booths and banquets of smooth, sumptuous leather line the walls. And the ceramic plates on display sport labels of some of Bernheimer's favorite wines that inspired her to get into the business.
The Food: The menu is compact (less than a page long on a recent night), and each plate is dazzling. Over and over, chef Hayden presents a seemingly simplistic dish you've had plenty of times before — with a delightful, often unexpected, and entirely welcome twist. Wedges of endive are stacked up with shards of savory meringue, while a pear crémeux rests beneath. Kampachi crudo and apple slices are paired with a creamy, sweet ajo blanco sauce. Bar Etoile also delivers a winning steak frites, served with crispy frites and zesty chimichurri.
The Drink: The wine list is packed with heavy-hitters, and features mostly old world small-batch natural producers. The bar serves up a few classic cocktails, beers, and several NA beverages.
The Verdict: Bar Etoile is worthy of a celebration or a special evening out, serving one of the more refined and enjoyable dinners on the East Side. –Oren Peleg
→ Bar Etoile (Melrose Hill) • 632 N Western Ave • Tue-Sat 430-11p • Reserve.