Sqirl dinner

Sqirl (Virgil Village)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

Los Angeles is built on false hope: “I’ll be there in 20,” “we’re just getting your table ready now,” “we’ll call you about the role.” And for a minute, it seemed Sqirl’s much-talked-about after-dark turn would be joining this lineup. But last week, at last, the Virgil Village daytime favorite opened for its first dinner service. I stopped in on Saturday night.