The gift of a warm tortilla

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RESTAURANTS • First Person 

ATLA, at last

For a city with no shortage of excellent taco stands, Los Angeles has a dearth of high-end Mexican restaurants. The Mexico City-based chef Enrique Olvera set out to change that in 2020, when he touched down with fine dining Damian, an instant winner with its sleek interior, Caesar-topped uni tostadas, and perfectl…