The way of water

Marea (Beverly Hills)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Over the past few years, Beverly Hills has become ground zero for upscale Italian in Los Angeles (see Funke, Dante, the reimagined La Dolce Vita). The newest player on this scene, Marea, isn’t just another New York City import, but Central Park South’s seafood temple — open as of last month on a tony stretch of Camden Drive.

The…