Tijuana north
Taqueria Frontera (Cypress Park)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Overseen by Juan Carlos “JC” Guerra — whose father Antonio Esquivel, founded the hugely successful Tijuanazo Taqueria south of the border — Taqueria Frontera is Cypress Park’s truly authentic Tijuanense taco standout. They opened an already-popular second location in Silver Lake last month.
The Vibe: At the Cypress Park original, plastic chairs situated in a sit-yourself-anywhere manner spill out onto the sidewalk, all surrounding an open kitchen. It’s honest and personal, with cooks slicing and dressing seconds before handing over your food. And, delightfully, it’s all happening on a quiet residential corner.
The Food: Reliably superb tacos, mulitas, quesadillas, and vampiros, featuring asada, chorizo, lengua, or a vegetarian option. Tortas and queso-tacos are on the menu as well, along with side orders. All that’s alongside the real highlights, which are the birria and pastor. All pastor options get sliced right off the trompo. The flavor elevates it far above most of LA’s parking lot and sidewalk-resting taco joints, the right amount of smokiness, pineapple acid, and rich fat with just enough chili.
The Drinks: Sodas, waters, and in-house aguas frescas.
The Verdict: Outstanding, traditional offerings that stand out in LA’s crowded taco scene. There’s a reason both Taqueria Frontera setups are buzzing neighborhood spots. –James Royce
→ Taqueria Frontera (Cypress Park) • 700 Cypress Ave • Tue-Sun 12-10p.