RESTAURANTS • First Word
In New York, restaurant turnover is part of the city’s rhythm. Places shutter, and before the chairs get stacked, something new moves in. LA, on the other hand, generally takes its time with moves like these. But a recent flurry of action in Chinatown has a distinctly New York feel to it.
Firstborn breathed new life into the old Pok Pok digs, Baby Bistro became the latest tenant in the Alpine Courtyard complex, and the former Oriel space has been transformed into Café Tondo, a modern-day panaderia and bar channeling the deliciously relaxed vibes of Mexico City that opened in late July.
Tucked into a sunlit corner under the steady hum of the A Line, by day, it’s a café where freelancers camp out and friends catch up over cortados. Out back, there’s a quiet patio perfect for small groups and whispered gossip. Inside, the dining room works double duty as a bar and occasional stage. In the kitchen, chef Valeria Velásquez blends her Colombian roots with her years in Mexico City and the recipes that owner Abraham Campillo grew up eating.
Mornings start with the aroma of café de olla — sweetened with piloncillo and laced with cinnamon — plus piquant plates of chilaquiles that go perfectly with effervescent glasses of the CDMX standby, suero. As the day rolls on, spritzes start flowing and vermouth glasses clink, while comforting and thoughtful plates like chicken milanesa appear. The tight menu is just enough to let you graze or build a full meal while the night takes shape.
When the sun dips, the neon pink glow takes over the room. Jazz melts into bolero, DJs slide into salsa, and suddenly you’re outside with a cantarito in hand, deep in conversation, as strangers turn into friends. Café Tondo is an all-day cafe, but it’s also so much more. –Darin Bresnitz
→ Café Tondo (Chinatown) • 1135 N Alameda St • Sun & Tue-Thu 8a-11p, Fri-Sat 8a-12a • Walk-ins only.